Jean Paul Gaultier Targets Le Male With Men’s Cosmetics
This article was originally published in The Rose Sheet
Executive Summary
Designer Jean Paul Gaultier is tapping into the emerging men's cosmetics market with the introduction of Tout Beau Tout Propre, one of the first U.S. department store makeup lines for men, licensee Beaute Prestige International said
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Designer Jean Paul Gaultier is tapping into the emerging men's cosmetics market with the introduction of Tout Beau Tout Propre , one of the first U.S. department store makeup lines for men, licensee Beaute Prestige International said. Tout Beau Tout Propre, meaning "all beautiful, all clean" in French, features six cosmetic items for skin, eyes, lips and nails, as well as four grooming products. The products are launching as ancillaries to the designer's Le Male fragrance, which bowed in 1995 as Gaultier's first men's scent (1 (Also see "Marketing in Brief: Mode et Parfums" - HBW Insight, 17 Jul, 1995.), In Brief). Following the recent debut of the complete line in Macy's Herald Square, the grooming portion will roll out to 700 department and specialty store doors in December. However, BPI will take a more selective approach with the cosmetics, launching the items in only 50 doors, including Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale's doors. The company is keeping the cosmetics distribution limited to better target the niche consumer who will likely be attracted to the line, and because its success will require a high-level of attention from retailers, Exec VP/General Manager Maggie Ciafardini said. "We really want to be in an environment that has the [target] customer...which is pretty much in major cities, and also where we have the understanding and commitment from the retailer," Ciafardini said. The cosmetics are targeted to "metrosexual" men ages 25-40, according to the exec. For example, the target consumer is typically a "heterosexual man who is concerned about his appearance," she explained, adding, "He's the one who is borrowing his wife's concealer if he has a skin irritation." Only a few beauty firms have dabbled in men's cosmetics thus far. Estee Lauder's Aramis brand tested a Surface grooming line dubbed "makeup for men" in 2000 (2 (Also see "Aramis Scratches Surface Of Men's Skin Care With "Grooming Tools"" - HBW Insight, 12 Jun, 2000.), p. 9). The company's MAC specialty store brand also markets unisex cosmetic items. In the U.S. mass market segment, British grooming brand King of Shaves is preparing to launch concealer, lip and nail items for men under its XCD skin care brand (3 (Also see "King Of Shaves Reigns Over New Men’s Category At Mass With XCD" - HBW Insight, 27 Oct, 2003.), p. 7). Tout Beau Tout Propre makeup items, positioned to "enhance masculinity," include High Energy Moisturizing Face Balm, Matte Powder Bronzer and Brush, Shiny Lip Roll and Nourishing Lip Balm in three "natural" colors. The range also comprises Kohl Pen and Concealer and Smoothing Fortifying Nail Pen. The matte powder costs $42, while the other items retail for $18 each. Products will be showcased in stores with on-counter tester units. BPI will support the launch with in-store ads, as well as a postcard mail campaign, the company said. The grooming items are positioned as "enhanced" formulas designed to "cleanse face and body, deodorize, moisturize and soothe razor burn," according to BPI. The range comprises Gentle Face and Body Soap ($28), a formula that leaves a non-drying yet soft feel on skin, as well as Gentle All-Over Shower Gel ($30), a light fragrant shower gel housed in a translucent blue block, according to BPI. The collection offers an alcohol-free deodorant stick ($22) and alcohol-free aftershave emulsion ($34), which helps treat razor burn. BPI expects Tout Beau Tout Propre to account for 20% of total Le Male brand sales, Ciafardini said. In the spring, BPI will relaunch the Jean Paul Gaultier Classique eau de parfum range for women. The existing edp, which is generating double-digit sales gains, will be expanded with three additional edp sizes as well as a new bottle and new outer packaging, the company stated. Under its other licenses - Narciso Rodriguez and Issey Miyake - BPI is planning new product launches for fall. Narciso Rodriguez' first fragrance, Narciso Rodriguez for Her , has performed well, capturing a top spot at Saks Fifth Avenue, according to the company. The fragrance launched in September (4 (Also see "Designers McCartney, Rodriguez To Launch Premier Scents This Fall" - HBW Insight, 7 Jul, 2003.), p. 6). |